Hair Structure/ Type/ and Growth Cycle

Let's take a closer look at the hair anatomy...

HAIR ANATOMY:

  • Hair is composed of a strong structural protein called keratin. This is the same kind of protein that makes up the nails and the outer layers of the skin.

Each strand of hair consist of three layers:

  • MEDULLA - An innermost layer only present in large thick hairs.
  • CORTEX - The middle layer that provides the hair with its strength, colour and texture.
  • CUTICLE - The outermost layer of the hair, the cuticle is thin and colourless and serves as the protector of the cortex.


The hair root, which is contained within a hair follicle, is located under the skin's surface. 

  • The dermal papilla is located at the base of the hair follicle. To grow new hair, the dermal papilla receives nutrition from the bloodstream. The dermal papilla structure, which has androgen and male hormone receptors, is essential for hair growth. 
  • Hair development is regulated by androgens. In people who are genetically inclined to this form of hair loss, androgens may cause the hair follicle to shrink over time in scalp hair, making the hair finer.




There are around 100,000 hair follicles on the scalp alone, and five million hair follicles on the body. The hair follicle itself is made up of the papilla and the bulb. The papilla contains tiny blood vessels that deliver blood supply to the hair follicle. The papilla nourishes the hair follicle with the necessary nutrients for hair growth. The bulb, which surrounds the papilla. Is where the hairs’ cells divide. Cells of the bulb divide much faster than the other cells in the human body. The hair shaft is made up of a hard protein called keratin, and a scale-like outer protective layer called the cuticle. Hair shafts are actually dead, which is why it doesn’t hurt to get a hair cut!

Just like lashes, eyebrows have an average 5- 7 week growth cycle, however can differ from factors such as your age, metabolism, race, weight and more. This does not however mean that eyebrows strictly grow back in 7 weeks, as the hair

is in a continuous cycle of growth phases called Anagen, Catagen and Telogen.

HAIR ANATOMY 3 PHASES -

ANAGEN PHASE:

  • Approximately 85% of all hairs are in a growing phase at any time. This growth phase can vary from 2 years to six years. Hair will grow approximately 10cm per year, and any individual hair is unlikely to grow more than one meter long. 
  • In the anagen stage, the hair receives nourishment from the blood supply from the dermal papilla. This enables the cells to reproduce. Cells move upwards to form the different structures of the hair shaft. Melanin is also produced to form hair colour. 

CATAGEN PHASE:

  • Following the growth phase, is the transitional stage. One to two weeks pass during the catagen phase. The hair follicle decreases to about 1/6 of its normal size during the catagen phase. The dermal papilla separates and rests below once the lower portion is gone. 
  • This is the stage of hair growth when it is dormant or resting. The dermal papilla separates at this stage, causing the lower end of the hair to separate from the follicle's base. The hair, which is frequently referred to as club-ended hair, is still receiving nutrition from the follicle wall. The hair begins to dry out and rises until it is just below the sebaceous gland. It is easily removable at this point.

TELOGEN PHASE:

  • Following the catagen phase, there is a resting period that lasts for around five to six weeks. The dermal papilla remains below in a resting phase throughout this time, and the hair does not develop during this time but rather remains linked to the follicle. At any given time, this phase is present in about 10-15% of hairs. 
  • Reentering the anagen phase, the hair follicle. A new hair starts to grow when the dermal papilla and the follicle's base reunite. The growth cycle restarts if the old hair hasn't been shed yet because the new hair pushes the old one out.


Hair type

Vellus hair is the fine, non-pigmented hair that covers the body of children and adults. It does not usually grow longer than 2cms in length. Vellus hair is usually straight, regardless of ethnic origin, due to the fact that the follicles are not deep. The growth of Vellus hair is not affected by hormones.

Terminal hair is the thick pigmented hair found on the scalp, bread, underarms, and public area. The growth of terminal hair is influenced by hormones.

Terminal hair is generally more abundant on males than females. However, variations exist within populations with some women appearing hairier than some males.

These hair types can be straight, curly or wavy depending on ethnic origin, hereditary factors and chemical hair treatment such as perms.

European hair would appear to be oval in shape and would tend to be wavy. Asian hair would appear to be round in shape and tend to be straight. Afro-Caribbean hair would appear to be flattened and tend to be very curly.

In some cases, excess hair growth, called hirsutism (pronounced: hur-suh-tih-zum), maybe the result of certain medical conditions. In girls, polycystic ovary syndrome and other hormonal disorders can cause dark, coarse hair to grow on the face, especially the upper lip, and on the arms, chest, and legs. Some medications, like anabolic steroids, can also cause hirsutism.

Superfluous hair is coarse unwanted hair, also termed hypertrichosis. Superfluous hair is considered not only a physical burden but can become psychological one, too if not treated. The modern woman is keenly aware of the importance of being well-groomed; her happiness, poise, even her success or failure in life very much depend upon the face she presents to the world.

The reluctance and timidity of women to discuss this condition would vanish if they realised superfluous hair is not something to be ashamed of, but a simple problem requiring remedial treatment. Generally considered a “cosmetic” issue, hair growth can cause real or perceived problems with social acceptance for many people, both male and female. Many cultures have a perceived ideal amount of hair growth. Changes in hair growth patterns are sometimes a symptom of hormonal imbalances. Managing or removing unwanted hair can go beyond being a simple “cosmetic” problem.





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